Breakthroughs XXII
SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY & GROOMING VOL. XXII
CLINICAL RESEARCH DELIVERS SCIENCE TO SAVVY CONSUMERS
P&G Beauty & Grooming is a leader in delivering products that provide a variety of scientifically meaningful benefits to consumers. From professional level anti-aging protocols, to anti-dandruff shampoos, to moisturizing body washes and advanced shaving regimens, each claim associated with these products must be backed by solid science and clinical research.
Clinical research at P&G Beauty & Grooming includes a rigorous regimen of product performance tests conducted under tightly controlled conditions. The research addresses questions such as how often the product should be used and if the product meets very specific performance measurements. The data gathered provide the information needed to clearly demonstrate and communicate product benefits to professionals and consumers.
As part of the clinical research program, P&G Beauty & Grooming routinely works in conjunction with medical professionals and external thought leaders to design studies that meet the needs of regulatory
agencies and scientific credentialing programs. The recent launch of Olay Professional Pro-X in North America and China demonstrates how clinical data, from studies designed in collaboration with a panel of leading dermatologists, were used to support advertising claims such as "clinically proven anti-aging results in 28 days."
According to Dr. Mike Simone, Associate Director, Research and Development, P&G Beauty & Grooming, a diverse group of scientists works closely with project teams to design and implement clinical research protocols. "Each clinical team in Beauty & Grooming is comprised of a wide range of experts, including a clinical scientist who designs the study in partnership with a lead statistician, data managers who determine how data will be collected and organized for analysis, and trial managers who coordinate all aspects of the study logistics and execution," said Simone.
With clinical resources located in each of P&G's global markets, many of the Beauty & Grooming studies are multi-centered trials, which offer specific benefits surrounding access to more study participants and the ability to conduct research at multiple sites in parallel. For example, when researching anti-dandruff shampoos, a multi-centered trial provides a larger pool of participants with minimum dandruff scores, a specific requirement for the study.
In each of the clinical research programs, the measurements and tools used to evaluate the results are determined based on the business and technical objectives of the project, allowing scientists to identify the ideal subject set and study site. In most cases, the clinical team measures skin biology and appearance benefits associated with the product. In addition, expert visual grading is used to examine elements such as flake scores, fine lines and wrinkles. Instrumental methods include 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional imaging techniques which produce digital images of skin appearance, while other instrumental techniques measure skin elasticity, moisture and the ability of skin to act as an effective barrier. Analytical and biotechnology measurements are also used on skin and scalp samples
to provide further biochemical analysis.
"As clinical studies become more complex, sophisticated measurement tools allow us to further connect technical improvements with meaningful consumer outcomes, and ultimately, better understand how our Beauty & Grooming products can be improved to delight a broader range of consumers," said Simone. "Today, clinical research is used more broadly across categories, and it goes beyond examining a product's efficacy to include a more in-depth analysis of which consumers the product works best for and under what conditions, and how combinations of products deliver unique benefits over any product alone."
ANTI-AGING FORMULA DEMONSTRATES RESULTS FROM HEAD TO TOE
When it comes to aging and appearance, women typically worry most about the skin and wrinkles on their faces. However, new research indicates that body skin, specifically on the neck, décolletage, hands, arms and knees, also plays a significant role in age perception and attractiveness.
The study, conducted by Dr. Bernhard Fink at the University of Goettingen in Germany, in collaboration with P&G Beauty and Grooming, evaluated perceived age and attractiveness when body skin is judged independently from facial skin. Study results demonstrated that body skin can actually decrease perceived age by up to a decade.
Historically, most anti-aging skin care products focus on facial skin. With the results of Dr. Fink's research in mind, P&G Beauty & Grooming used the latest skin care technologies to develop a new anti-aging body wash. This new body wash utilizes a formula designed to improve the most common signs of aging on the body. These indicators include skin elasticity and moisture levels, skin brightness, evenness of skin tone, skin smoothness and the appearance of dry lines.
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"The results from this study provided the driving force we needed to rethink the notion of ‘giving women what they need' in terms of anti-aging skin care treatments," says Dr. Rolanda Johnson, Senior Scientist, P&G Beauty & Grooming. "This new formula, based on novel research and designed with the latest skin care technologies, will provide women aging solutions from head to toe."
In developing the anti-aging wash, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists combined fundamental body wash components, including ingredients that cleanse and moisturize the skin, with additional elements that remove dry skin cells and improve skin elasticity. Scientists balanced the combination of ingredients and their cleansing and anti-aging benefits with a proprietary surfactant technology. P&G Beauty & Grooming evaluated the effectiveness of the new treatment, using measurements such as corneometer readings, TEWL (Trans-Epidermal Water Loss) and protein data, to truly understand the unique skin benefits of the new formula.
Based on the study, results indicated that skin softness and smoothness is improved after one shower, skin elasticity is improved after only one week of use, and skin looks younger and more radiant after one month. Further testing demonstrated that the new formula also improves moisturization and skin moisture retention, soothes dry skin, smoothes rough skin, and reduces the appearance of dry lines.
Taking body wash and anti-aging technologies to a new level, P&G Beauty & Grooming hopes to delight women with this new body wash that focuses on the whole body.
MEASURING THE IMPACT OF AGING ON HAIR
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists don't just conduct clinical studies to determine the effectiveness of new products. They also use clinical studies to better understand fundamental characteristics of hair and skin.
P&G scientists collaborated with wool experts to develop a new technique to study how aging impacts hair diameter. The study of hair diameter is complicated by variability of individual hairs and subjects, as well as life and environmental factors. Initially used in the wool industry, optical fiber diameter analysis (OFDA) provides a highly sensitive, reproducible, and reliable technique of measuring hair diameter.
P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists used the method to determine the hair diameters and diameter distribution profiles of 450 women aged 20-80. Hair samples were clipped from a 2cm2 area above the ear. P&G scientists then developed a statistical algorithm to compare average hair diameters and changes in width of the distribution. The study revealed while the variability in hair diameter does not change with increasing age, average diameter of parietal hairs drops by
0.14 μm/year after age 40.
"This study indicates that human hair diameter distributions are much more complex than previously thought, and that hair diameter is a key driver of age-related changes" said Dr. Tom Dawson, Principal Scientist, P&G Beauty & Grooming. "The improved breadth and throughput of this method enables a totally new way to look at changes in human hair."
OFF THE SHELF BRAND AS EFFECTIVE AS Rx WRINKLE REGIMEN
The first ever head-to-head anti-aging clinical trial comparing an off the shelf brand to the leading prescription wrinkle regimen, 0.02 tretinoin, was published in February 2010 in The British Journal of Dermatology, one of the world's leading dermatology journals. The 8-week study was conducted in 196 women with moderate to moderately severe periorbital wrinkles. Results indicated that the niacinamide/peptide/retinylpropionate regimen clinically improves the appearance of facial lines and wrinkles as well as a gold standard prescription regimen.
Some participants continued to use their respective regimens for a total of 24 weeks; both groups continued to improve, showing an over 20 percent reduction (on average) in fine lines and wrinkles. The study shows that the effectiveness of a prescription product for improving the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles can be achieved with an appropriately designed cosmetic regimen.
THE IMPACT OF SHAVING ON SKIN CONDITION
The use of different product combinations can yield varied shaving experiences, indicating opportunities for men to achieve better, more comfortable shaves through adjustments in their regimens. To further understand this, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists conducted a dermatologist-consulted clinical study on forty men with self-reported sensitive skin comparing a man's typical shaving regimen - using a bar soap, a typical shaving prep product and a 3-blade razor - to a 3-step regimen consisting of more advanced products including a gentle wash, a hydrating shave prep with 4 lubricating polymers designed for sensitive skin, a premium 5-blade razor with a micro-pulsing feature, and a hydrating after-shave balm with moisturizers and humectants.
Subjects shaved their faces and necks daily for 14 days, using a split-face design, with the Typical Shaving Regimen (control) on one side of the face and the Advanced Shaving Regimen (test) on the opposite side. Corneometer measurements taken on Days 1, 7 and 14 showed significant hydration benefits on the neck for the Advanced Shaving Regimen. P&G scientists were able to visualize the benefit hydration had on the stratum corneum using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM).
Study results also showed improvements in multiple measures, including comfort, irritation, smoothness, burning, stinging and itching, after use of the Advanced Shaving Regimen. Importantly, after just one day of use, participants reported significant improvement in irritation, comfort and smoothness using the Advanced Shaving Regimen compared to the Typical Shaving Regimen. By Day 14, they also reported significant improvement in burning and stinging.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Joe Kaczvinsky, PhD
Principal Scientist
Clinical scientists play an essential role in ensuring that beauty and grooming products deliver on their promised results. As P&G Beauty & Grooming's lead clinical scientist for skin care, Dr. Joe Kaczvinsky focuses primarily on in vivo evaluations of anti-aging products.
Dr. Kaczvinsky joined P&G over 25 years ago and has spent most of his career in the beauty and grooming area. In previous positions, he provided analytical and chemistry support for a wide variety of skin and hair care technology programs and has led technology development projects in hair growth, dandruff relief and skin moisturization.
Dr. Kaczvinsky is currently an adjunct member of the American Academy of Dermatology and a 25-year member of the American Chemical Society, where he has served as Local Section Chair. Additionally, he is a past member of the Society for Investigative Dermatology. His work has resulted in five patents, numerous presentations at scientific meetings, and publications in peer-reviewed journals, including Analytical Chemistry, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, and British Journal of Dermatology. He has also had significant experience preparing and presenting scientific evidence to support the integrity of various hair and skin care technologies before regulatory agencies such as the U. S. Food and Drug Administration.
Dr. Kaczvinsky completed his undergraduate studies at Providence College and received a doctorate degree in Analytical Chemistry from Iowa State University.
RESOURCES
American Academy of Dermatology
British Journal of Dermatology
http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/122580445/abstract
Emmy Noether Research Group
http://www.evolutionary-psychology.de/
P&G BEAUTY & GROOMING SCIENCE
P&G Beauty & Grooming Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 16 technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 10,000 patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty & Grooming products help make beauty dreams real for women worldwide and help men look, feel and be their best every day. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G's beauty and grooming products delivered sales of over $26 billion in fiscal year 2008/09, making it one of the world's largest beauty and grooming companies. P&G Beauty & Grooming offers trusted brands with leading technology to meet the full complement of beauty and grooming needs, including Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, DDF®, Frederic Fekkai®, Wellaflex®, Rejoice®, Sebastian Professional®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol Professional®, Nice 'n Easy®, Venus®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella Professionals®, Braun® and a leading Prestige Fragrance division that spans from point of market entry consumers to high end luxury with global brands such as Hugo Boss®, Lacoste®, and Christina Aguilera®. (NYSE: PG)
Please visit www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com for the latest news and in-depth information about P&G Beauty & Grooming and its scientific developments.
CONTACT
To talk to a P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty & Grooming Science, contact:
Steve Shiel - North America +1-513-626-1370
Sian Morris - Europe, Middle East and Africa +44-1784-474776
Dr. Colin D'Silva - Asia and Australia +65-6824-5383
Mauricio Graciano - Latin America +52-55-57-24-25-51
Weining Wu - Greater China +8620-8518-3184