The Search for the Optimal Cleanser

The evolution of cleansers from simply cleaning dirt and oil, to mitigating irritation, to providing skin health benefits, represents a paradigm shift in thinking that is largely unrealized by consumers and dermatologists.

The key challenge in developing these revolutionary new products was enhancing the deposition efficiency of the benefit agents, such as skin-enhancing lipids. Some advanced skin-cleansing products employ coacervate A polymer system that traps the conditioning agents to allow 2-in-1 shampoos to work properly. The coacervate holds the conditioning agents during the lather phase and then releases them to the hair upon water rinse. technology to efficiently deposit moisturizer after the cleansing and exfoliating process has been completed. Coacervates are precipitated polymer/ surfactant complexes capable of entrapping lipids and other benefit agents. This technology allows dirt to be washed away, while the moisturizing benefits of lipids remain for up to 24 hours, leaving a soft, smooth skin feel. (See diagram to right)17

Recent studies have shown that petrolatum aids barrier repair and can speed healing of damaged skin. The therapeutic effect makes a petrolatum-based cleanser a potential adjunct to treatment for skin conditions such as eczema and chronic dry skin. People with normal skin who bathe frequently or who experience seasonal dry skin can also benefit from using a petrolatum-based moisturizing body wash.

body wash for dry skin

Special Needs of Aging Skin

As skin ages, less and less of the skin's natural moisturizing factors are produced, causing it to become increasingly drier over time. In addition, the desquamation rate slows down, the network of collagen and elastin which support the skin degrades, and the production of the natural pigment melanin can become uneven.

Increased dryness is one of the most significant changes skin undergoes as it ages. The hormonal changes that accompany aging can accentuate this phenomenon. Mature skin tends to be dry and tight, with a rough, wrinkled texture and a dull appearance. This can be attributed to a reduction in the water content of the uppermost layer of the skin, a decrease in intercellular lipids, and a decrease in sebum secretion, all of which are needed for skin to stay soft, supple and smooth.

Consumer research carried out by P&G Beauty has shown that mature women consider their skin's primary need to be moisturization. Indeed, many women find that when they reach menopause the moisturizer that they have used for years is no longer enough, and that skin can still feel dry and tight after cleansing. Mature skin has a greater need for good daily skin care, including gentle cleansing with a soap-free cleanser comprised of a mild surfactant system, designed to minimize irritation and overdrying.

Since personal cleansing products are frequently identified as a potential cause of skin drying, good "skin compatibility" (i.e., a low potential to dry skin) is an important consideration when recommending a personal cleanser for a susceptible population.

Studies of elderly women show that moisturizing body washes provide improved skin compatibility and a greater ability to reduce dryness compared to a soap, syndet or beauty bar.18 In addition, a body wash like the petrolatum-depositing body wash can provide a significant skin health improvement benefit. A population that is susceptible to developing dry skin, such as the elderly, can benefit from using such a product.

What Consumers Want in a Cleanser

In addition to therapeutic moisturizing of the skin, newgeneration facial and body cleansers offer other important attributes consumers look for in a cleansing product.

Women's Skin Attitudes and Behaviors

96 percent of U.S. women have experienced dry skin, and 89 percent are bothered by this condition (compared to 73 percent who are bothered by signs of aging)
96 percent say it is important for their body wash to moisturize skin
One-half to almost three-quarters of women with dry skin say they want to fix the problem. To do this, 96 percent use moisturizing lotion, and 48 percent use a moisturizing cleansing product (many women use both)
45 percent of the U.S. shower once a day; 37 percent shower more than once a day

...and Men's

38 percent of U.S. men usually use a cleansing bar in the shower
40 percent use a washcloth
69 percent of men use the same product to cleanse their face and body
Men are less bothered by the visible signs of dry skin than women
More men are interested in a cleanser's antibacterial effect than women

New Beauty Intelligence

While cleansing in the morning is certainly refreshing, the most important time of day to cleanse is in the evening - after work, after dinner, or before bedtime.

Sleeping with makeup, dirt, and oils on the face can exacerbate acne and other skin problems and diminish skin health. One study found that good hygiene habits utilizing a high-quality cleanser can help to reduce acne in 9- to 18-year-olds with slight to moderate acne.21

Fascinating Facts about Skin

The average adult has enough skin surface area to cover a queen-size bed (25 square feet)
Skin accounts for 12-15 percent of total body weight
Washing with water alone can compromise the protective barrier properties of the epidermis
On average, each square half-inch of skin contains 10 hairs, 15 sebaceous glands, 100 sweat glands, and 3.2 feet of tiny blood vessels
Humans shed about 600,000 particles of epidermis every hour, or about 1.5 pounds a year. By age 70, the average person will have lost about 105 pounds of skin

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