Breakthroughs XVII
Science News from P&G Beauty vol. XVII 2008
Foundation Advances Improve Skin Health
Foundation is a mainstay of nearly every woman's cosmetic arsenal, improving skin appearance by camouflaging underlying facial pigmentation and texture irregularities. Because a woman typically wears foundation all day over the entire face, it has more of an impact on the skin than any other cosmetic.
Historically, skin health professionals believed that foundations could cause skin irritation, particularly in women with sensitive skin. Now in development at P&G Beauty is a new formulation that reduces skin irritation and offers the added benefits of skin enhancing ingredients along with improved coverage.
Applying extensive ingredient knowledge from their dermatology research team, P&G Beauty scientists added clinically proven ingredients, like niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine, to the new foundation. Niacinamide is a potent B vitamin that improves the skin's condition by strengthening the moisture barrier and helping promote homogenous collagen - both of which help to smooth the skin's texture and increase its reflectivity.
N-acetyl glucosamine interrupts the dysfunctional cycle of melanin overproduction in pigment-producing cells by blocking the conversion of tyrosinase - a key enzyme in melanin biosynthesis - to its active form. Studies show that together, N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide act to stimulate hyaluronan synthesis, a key component in skin's hydration, and increase collagen production.
The new foundation comes in the form of a solid emulsion - a formulation developed by P&G scientists in Japan that is being utilized globally by P&G Beauty. The compound begins as a cream in the compact and undergoes a transformation to liquid as a result of the friction and heat from contact with a finger, brush or sponge applicator. When applied to the face, the foundation converts back to cream once friction is no longer being applied. Unlike conventional liquid foundations that can pool in fine lines and wrinkles on the skin, or powder foundations that are drying and accentuate underlying skin texture, a solid emulsion allows the foundation to even skin tone while laying suspended over skin texture. The resulting flawless coverage is an advance that is reshaping the way beauty scientists define a perfect foundation.
A recent head-to-head clinical study compared P&G Beauty's new formulation to dermatologist-recommended foundations. At two and four weeks of regular use, P&G Beauty's new formulation was more gentle and better at alleviating skin irritation in subjects with sensitive skin. The study included subjects with rosacea and ethnic sensitive skin-women who generally are at higher risk for displaying sensitivity to foundation-demonstrating that the formulation helps offset common side effects of these sensitive skin conditions, such as erythema (skin redness), dryness, scaling, peeling and burning. In fact, due to the effective inclusion of proven skin health ingredients, the new foundation has been shown to improve over-all skin condition and appearance.
"We are excited by the development of this new formulation, which combines research from so many areas of our labs," explains Sarah Vickery, PhD, Senior Scientist at P&G Beauty. "We were able to pull from P&G's unique depth and breadth of research in skin health, physics and color science to come up with a truly exciting new product."
P&G BEAUTY LEADS THE WAY IN GENOMICS RESEARCH
Ten years ago, you could find P&G Beauty researcher Jay Tiesman in the genomics lab, analyzing data gene by gene. Today, advances in genomics technology allow Tiesman to analyze millions of genes in the same amount of time he needed to analyze five genes a decade ago. P&G Beauty's rich history in genomics research has provided their scientists access to the leading technologies and capabilities in the field to advance the study of beauty science. One of the most exciting technologies is the gene chip. The gene chip is a flexible tool which allows scientists to efficiently analyze gene expression in different types of people, animals, bacteria and even plants.
As one of the first consumer products companies to use the gene chip, P&G Beauty immediately put the capability to work by conducting product ingredient and formulation safety testing. P&G Beauty's commitment to product safety and alternatives to animal testing led the company to incorporate the gene chip into its ongoing efforts to replace animal testing with in vitro (cell-based) testing.
More recently, P&G Beauty scientists have utilized genomics research to take future product research to a whole new level. P&G scientists recently sequenced the M. globosa genome-the fungus that causes dandruff in humans. With that discovery, the range of potential targets for treatment increased from less than a handful to more than 4,000. Additionally, P&G Beauty researchers recently presented the results of a study in which the gene expression of young skin, intrinsically aged skin and extrinsically aged (or photodamaged) skin were compared in order to better understand how specific genes are modulated by the aging process. P&G Beauty scientists hope that these results may one day help to develop targeted treatments that address the cellular processes responsible for skin aging.
"By understanding the genomics and the genomic processes behind beauty, I think we can have an impact on the cosmetic industry that didn't exist previously," Tiesman said. "This in-house expertise gives us a wealth of information that can serve as a starting point for new research directions and ideas for future product formulations."
P&G Beauty's early start in genomics research has allowed the company to remain a leader in the field. Tiesman is actively working toward the incorporation of "next generation sequencing" technologies that will provide even more biological insights - with greater speed, higher accuracy and reduced costs compared to current technologies. "As we learn more about the sequences of the genes associated with skin aging and how they differ between people, we will be able to move into entirely new fields of skin research and perhaps come up with the next generation of skin care ingredients focused on an individual's specific skincare needs," said Tiesman.
Strangely Beautiful
Good shampoos need to have a split personality: they must remove dirt and oil, but, at the same time, deposit ingredients to promote hair and scalp health. To accomplish this two-pronged feat, cationic polymers (conditioning agents) join with the anionic surfactants (surface-active agents) to form web-like structures known as coacervates during the rinse phase. These structures, pictured in the transmitted light micrographs (on the left), carry ingredients to the hair and scalp (on the right) to provide benefits well beyond cleansing. Thanks to years of formulation research, P&G Beauty scientists have identified the optimal molecular characteristics and ingredient ratios to make this delivery system as efficient as possible. Additionally, the coacervate acts as a shock absorber for wet hair, protecting it from potentially damaging friction it may encounter from combs, brushes, fingers or towels.
Myths & Facts
Foundation is bad for skin health.
MYTH: Many women believe that foundation causes skin irritation. However, studies show that a well-formulated foundation can actually improve overall skin health and appearance. In the newest foundation formulation developed by P&G Beauty, scientists have added ingredients such as niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine, which improve skin hydration and increase collagen production, to achieve superior product results.
Foundation can make your skin look smoother and better.
FACT: The right foundation is capableof providing coverage that enhances your natural skin in a number of ways. P&G Beauty scientists have recently developed an invisible suspension system that interlaces foundation pigments into the product base. Unlike conventional foundations that often pool in fine lines and wrinkles on the skin, or powder foundations that are drying and can accentuate skin texture, this system allows foundation to even skin tone while actually hovering over the skin.
Lab Notes
Advanced Retinol Formulation For Anti-aging Treatments
P&G Beauty scientists are constantly searching for new active ingredients that provide anti-aging benefits to the skin. Retinoids, derivatives of Vitamin A known for diminishing fine lines and wrinkles and reducing the appearance of photo-aged skin, are key to the anti-aging ingredient arsenal. While all retinoids demonstrate a high degree of efficacy, elevated levels of some retinoids, such as trans-retinoic acid (available by prescription), can cause skin irritation.
With the goal of broader use in anti-aging treatments, P&G Beauty researchers have identified a retinoid formulation that retains efficacy and reduces irritation. The new formulation, retinyl propionate, has demonstrated skin improvements with less irritation compared to other active retinoids commonly used in skin care products. Studies show that 0.3% retinyl propionate significantly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and spots after 12 weeks of treatment and compares favorably to treatment with 0.15% retinol. Additionally, retinoid-induced irritation appears to be less evident in retinyl propionate as compared to other active retinoids. Although retinoids are prone to oxidation, retinyl propionate has an improved stability profile, increasing its half-life upon skin during topical delivery. With this new understanding, researchers are incorporating retinyl propionate into P&G Beauty anti-aging treatments.
In the Spotlight
Erica Hodgson, Senior Scientist, Research & Development Color Cosmetics
As a P&G Beauty Senior Scientist, Erica Hodgson grapples with the age-old cosmetics challenge - how to perfect liquid foundations to provide the most natural, flawless coverage. Today, she and her cosmetics team are using an advanced set of technological models to help find the perfect combination of materials to achieve that natural, flawless coverage.
Hodgson's accomplishments in developing advanced formulations have been significantly bolstered by P&G Beauty's partnership with the University of Leeds Department of Color Science. The collaboration began with Leeds sharing models that allowed P&G Beauty scientists to physically calculate the wavelengths of each foundation material and classify their light absorption and reflectance properties. Understanding these properties is important. To achieve natural looking color for foundations, formulators need to maximize the amount of light entering and travelling through the foundation film and skin. One big issue is the back scatter of blue light, which can cause foundation to look ashy on the skin. Formulators need materials that maximize light propagation as well as materials that absorb scattered blue light for the most natural look.
Hodgson joined the Color Cosmetics division of P&G Beauty R&D at the London Innovation Centre in 2006. She has since served as a key member of the Global Color Science team and has designed innovative liquid makeup for CoverGirl® and Max Factor®. Hodgson obtained her MS in Biochemistry & Biological Chemistry from the University of Nottingham, U.K.
Fast Forward
P&G Beauty Collaborates with Los Alamos National Laboratory
What do a nuclear weapons test lab and a beauty care manufacturer have in common? At first you might not see a logical business connection. However, P&G Beauty and Los Alamos National Laboratory (LANL) found common ground in statistics.
The partnership between P&G and LANL came to fruition in the mid-1990s when LANL needed outside data to test its data analysis models and P&G needed statistical models to evaluate the reliability of its manufacturing lines. As a result of the partnership, P&G has improved the reliability of its manufacturing lines and saved more than $1 billion in production costs.
P&G and LANL scientists also collaborate through an Industrial Fellows program, in which LANL scientists share in development of technology and solve unique problems in the P&G Beauty labs.
What does this partnership mean for the future of beauty products?
"Lately, we have been studying the molecular behavior of soft scale materials common in hair and skin care products," explains Tom Lange, Director of Modeling and Simulation, P&G Corporate R&D. "Imagine predicting the shelf life of a complex formulation from the molecules in the ingredients!"
Resources
Genome Sequencing Via Gene Chip
http://pgbeautyscience.com/genome-sequencing-via-gene-chip.html
Los Alamos National Laboratory
University of Leeds Department of Color Science
http://www.colour.leeds.ac.uk/
P&G Beauty Science
P&G Beauty Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 11 global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 3,500 active beauty care patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty products help make beauty dreams real and grooming enjoyable every day for millions of women and men worldwide. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G Beauty delivered sales of more than $22 billion in fiscal year 2006/07, making it a leading global beauty company. P&G Beauty brands include: Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, Rejoice®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella®, Joy® by Jean Patou, Hugo Boss® and Lacoste®. (NYSE: PG)
CONTACT INFORMATION
To talk to a P&G scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty, contact:
Heather Cunningham P&G Beauty Science 513-626-2606