Breakthroughs XV
SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY VOL. XV 2008
Wrinkles vs. Discoloration: What rules health anD aging PercePtion?
Facial characteristics, such as shape and form, have a tremendous impact on the perception of female attractiveness. While it seems intuitive that skin topography (wrinkles) and skin color distribution (age spots and hyperpigmentation) also impact the perception of a woman's attractiveness, age and health, only recently have these been studied in an empirical way. A new study, published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology, focuses on the relative importance and meaning of color distribution and wrinkles in perception of age and health.
Color Distribution vs. Topography
Dr. Bernhard Fink, University of Gottingen, Germany, and Dr. Paul Matts, P&G Beauty Research Fellow, selected 50 frontal images of women between the ages of 40 and 74. Each face was altered into four different images: Face 1 - original unmodified face, Face 2 - wrinkles removed, Face 3 - skin pigmentation smoothed and Face 4 - wrinkles removed and skin pigmentation smoothed. 200 male and female naïve judges were shown each image in a randomized sequence and asked to estimate the subjects' age and rate each subject for perceived health.
The results show that about 80% of the variation in perceived age can be accounted for by variation in skin topography and color distribution. "The data showed that both skin color distribution (pigmentation) and skin surface topography (wrinkles) cues significantly influence the perception of female facial age and health, but convey differential information with regard to the strength of these effects," said Dr. Matts.
Specifically, age perception of the female face was primarily influenced by the presence of wrinkles. The faces with topography removed represented a mean difference of approximately 10 years younger while the faces with smoothed color represented a mean difference of only one year younger, both vs. unmodified faces.
However, the impact of uneven pigmentation should not be downplayed. The combination of both wrinkles and color had a synergistic effect on age perception with the topography smoothed plus color smoothed faces representing a mean difference of 15.8 years younger vs. unmodified faces.
Additionally, it appears that uneven pigmentation may play a larger role than wrinkles in the perception of a woman's health. The color-smoothed facial set had the highest health rating relative to both unmodified and wrinkle smoothed facial sets. "Perhaps we have uncovered the importance of even skin coloration in the notion of ‘growing old gracefully,'" said collaborator Dr. Fink.
The Secret to Growing Old Gracefully
The results of this study solidify the importance of multifunctional performance in skin anti-aging treatments. Oonly when both wrinkles and color unevenness are addressed can a woman's face be perceived at its youngest and most healthful condition. Skin anti-aging products with optimal performance need to protect the skin from extrinsic factors (such as sun and free radical damage) with UVv filters and antioxidants, while also providing corrective ingredients for skin texture (such as niacinamide and/or peptides) and corrective ingredients for skin discoloration, such as N-acetyl glucosamine.
Novel Imaging Technology Reveals New Over-the-Counter AntipPerspirant Is Less Irritating than Prescription Counterparts
Fighting off excessive underarm sweat and odor is a battle countless men and women face every day. In many cases when they see a physician, the first option is to try a prescription antiperspirant. Virtually all prescription products are based on the very acidic aluminum chloride as the active ingredient. While efficacious, the formulations are well known to have a high potential to induce irritation. Frequently, patients find themselves having to either discontinue use or alternate use with other products.
Now, a novel imaging technology has helped scientists prove that a "soft-solid" formula based on the less acidic aluminum zirconium salts commonly used in over-the-counter (OTC) antiperspirants can deliver efficacy similar to prescription products while being far less irritating to the skin.
Novel Imaging Method Measures Underarm Irritation
The non-contact Spectrophotometric Intracutaneous Analysis (SIAScope) method of image analysis maps skin chromophores, including hemoglobin, eumelanin and dermal collagen, to measure irritation. "By measuring the distribution and concentration of hemoglobin in axillary skin, we can assess subclinical irritation before it presents visually as redness on the skin for detection by expert graders. This method correlates to expert assessed irritation; however, because this method allows us to see what is happening below the skin surface, we are able to reduce the number of human exposures to irritating treatments as we screen new technologies," said Llola Kelly Smalls, Clinical Scientist at P&G Beauty.
Anhydrous "Soft Solid" OTC AP
Original Image / Hemoglobin Map
Rx Aluminum Chloride AP
Original Image / Hemoglobin Map
SIAScope technology captures and measures hemoglobin values that correlate to expert assessed irritation in underarm skin. These pictures show that the OTC antiperspirant tested was significantly less irritating than the prescription antiperspirant.P&G Beauty scientists conducted two controlled, randomized and blinded paired-comparison clinical studies to assess the efficacy of OTC and prescription antiperspirant products. In one of those clinical studies, SIAScope technology was used to assess axillary irritation in conjunction with expert-assessed irritation and subject self-assessments.
Results from the SIAScope hemoglobin mapping found that patients using the prescription antiperspirant experienced significantly more irritation (P<0.05) than those using the OTC product. Patients using the prescription product often felt stinging and burning sensations. Data obtained using the SIAScope were consistent with significant findings from expert clinical visual irritation scores (P<0.05) and subject self-assessments (P<0.5).
"The results demonstrate that SIAScope imaging technology is an effective tool for assessing skin irritation," said Kelly Smalls. "Additionally, the superior efficacy and milder ‘soft solid' formula of OTC products could possibly increase patient compliance and lead to a more consistent usage regimen."
Strangely Beautiful
Thermographic Imaging of Mascara Application
P&G Beauty scientists recently developed a novel approach for conveying the benefits and superiority of a new P&G mascara product that volumizes lashes through both its formulation and applicator. Specifically, scientists utilized thermographic imaging technology that depicts an object based on its surface temperature to demonstrate more even distribution of mascara that results in longer, fuller-looking lashes.
The challenge with mascara research is visualizing a dark liquid (mascara) applied to a dark substrate (lashes). Thermography allows scientists to "see" the mascara because the mascara on application is at a lower temperature than the lashes.
Thermographic photos show the new P&G Beauty formula (left) creates a full fan of lashes through better distribution after one stroke with less clumping than the leading competition (center, right). This is a result of improved mascara wand design, which spreads the mascara more evenly, as well as a formula that contains particles that slightly protrude from the mascara film, acting as spacers for improved lash separation.
Myths & Facts
Sweat occurs the same way for all types of stress.
MYTH: Thermal stress and emotional stress are activated differently and create different kinds of sweat. Sweating from thermal stress is what typically happens on a hot day or during exercise where it's a continuous flow of liquid. Sweating from emotional stress occurs in quick, powerful bursts.
Body odor differs in each person.
FACT: The main source of body odor comes from sweat secreted by the apocrine gland, which responds primarily from emotional stress. These glands don't function until puberty. Differences in body odor from these glands can arise from amount of underarm hair, genetics and cleansing habits.
Lab Notes
Cosmetic Safety Assurance: Quantitative Risk Assessment Enhances Product
A collaboration of P&G beauty researchers and other safety scientists has resulted in a more accurate, non-invasive assessment tool for evaluating contact skin allergy-the Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA).
QRA enables a more precise assessment of acceptable exposure levels for skin allergens in a variety of skin applications. it considers the individual allergy potential of an ingredient (to calculate a Weight-of-Evidence No Expected Sensitization Induction Level [WoE NESIL]), its concentration in the respective product formulation and the specific usage conditions such as skin barrier function at the application site and presence of potential skin penetration enhancers (to determine Sensitization Assessment Factors [SAF]). in brief, using these parameters, an acceptable exposure level (AEL) can be calculated and compared with the expected consumer exposure level (CEL). As long as the CEL is less than the AEL the safe use of the allergen in the product is supportable.
QRA is quickly becoming a global standard for product safety testing. In 2006, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) adopted the QRA methodology as the core strategy for prevention of dermal sensitization to fragrance ingredients in consumer products. As additional data points are generated to refine the accuracy of the model, it will ultimately translate into products that have the highest possible safety profile.
In the Spotlight
"Skin Cancer Takes Friends" Underscores Importance of Early Detection, Screening
Olay and the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS) are teaming up for the fifth consecutive year to sponsor "Skin Cancer Takes Friends," a national education campaign to promote skin cancer prevention and detection. One in five Americans will get skin cancer in their lifetime, making it the most common form of cancer in the U.S. However, by undergoing a skin cancer screening, the disease can be detected and treated early, leading to a cure in the majority of cases.
In an effort to encourage Americans to protect not only themselves, but their friends and family as well, more than 300 dermasurgeons nationwide will volunteer to provide free skin cancer screenings during May, June and July. Women are encouraged to bring their loved ones with them to a participating dermatologist for full screenings, at no cost to either patient.
"Many Americans don't understand how deadly skin cancer can be. Whether or not you have a family history of skin cancer or any questionable markings on your body, it is vital to get screened annually. A dermasurgeon can recognize even the earliest stages of skin cancer, which will result in early treatment and potentially save a life," says Alastair Carruthers, M.D., former President of the ASDS.
Fast Forward
Liquid Crystals May Be the Secret to High-Definition Hair
Recently, P&G Beauty hair researchers found that combining polymers like Poly Diallyldimethyl Ammonium Chloride with oppositely charged surfactants creates micro-structures called Liquid Crystals. Liquid Crystals are defined by exemplifying both liquid-like and solid-like properties as a function of their structure orderedness. Spherical Liquid Crystals are comprised of polymer layers sandwiched between surfactants bi-layers. These liquid crystals are often referred to as "onions" because of how they appear microscopically (see image). Liquid Crystals have many interesting effects in shampoo including affinity to hair strands and the ability to modify the surface energy of the hair. Imagine a future where liquid crystal technology improves the appearance of hair both on and off your TV.
Computer generated model of a shampoo Liquid Crystal.
Resources
Skin Cancer Takes Friends campaign
http://www.olay.com/sctf08/
American Society for Dermatologic Surgery
http://www.asds.net/
International Fragrance Association
http://www.ifraorg.org/
American Association for the Advancement of Science
http://www.aaas.org/
American Academy of Dermatology
http://www.aad.org/
P&G BEAUTY SCIENCE
P&G Beauty Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 11 global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 3,500 active beauty care patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty products help make beauty dreams real and grooming enjoyable every day for millions of women and men worldwide. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G Beauty delivered sales of more than $22 billion in fiscal year 2006/07, making it a leading global beauty company. P&G Beauty brands include: Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, Rejoice®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol®, Gillette®, Sk-II®, Wella®, Joy® by Jean Patou, Hugo Boss® and Lacoste®. (NYSE: PG)
CONTACT INFORMATION
To talk to a P&G scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty, contact:
Heather Cunningham P&G Beauty Science 513-626-2606