Breakthroughs VI

SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY VOL. VI 2006

NEW RESEARCH YIELDS FIRST-OF-ITS-KIND DANDRUFF TREATMENT

Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are among the most widespread and under-diagnosed scalp problems worldwide, affecting 55 percent of the global population. Previously, P&G Beauty scientists advanced scientific understanding of dandruff by accurately identifying the exact organism that causes dandruff and prizing out the etiological mechanism through which dandruff inflammation occurs. “Dandruff is not just flaking,” said Tom Dawson, Ph.D., Senior Scientist, P&G Beauty. “It manifests as a multitude of symptoms that include itchiness, scalp tightness, dry feel, irritation and flakes. Understanding the etiology brings us closer to relieving the physical discomfort and providing better treatments.”

Utilizing this groundbreaking information, P&G Beauty scientists have now formulated their first major advancement in dandruff treatment in nearly 40 years. This treatment is the culmination of breakthrough research conducted by P&G Beauty scientists who identified the exact fungal cause of dandruff – and then used those findings to engineer a new advanced potentiated pyrithione zinc (PTZ) formulation.

Leveraging the Power of Zinc

“For a condition that affects more than half of the world’s population, there have been surprisingly few definitive answers about what causes dandruff and its symptoms,” says Steven Shiel, Ph.D., Principle Researcher, P&G Beauty. “Having a fuller picture enabled us to actively research more than 300 substances to finally find that zinc compounds, ingredients with age-old health and beauty properties, hold the key to making antidandruff shampoo even more effective.”

Image, left: Disconnected zinc and PTZ molecules which are unable to penetrate the Malassezia cells. Image, right: New technology that enables the zinc and PTZ to remain intact to penetrate and kill the Malessezia cells, eradicating dandruff.

Zinc compounds have long been known for having wound healing, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties that make them ideal for battling skin conditions such as dandruff. Some of the most effective over-the-counter dandruff treatments have been shampoos containing pyrithione zinc. With a goal to improve dandruff treatment, P&G Beauty scientists re-engineered the shampoo to make the PTZ molecules more effective at eradicating the primary cause of dandruff, Malassezia, through enhancing its bioavailability in use. The scientists at P&G Beauty found that, as expected by LeChatelier’s principle, some PTZ molecules will naturally dissociate in solution into free Zn and PT. These dissociated ions have been shown to lose their potency against Malassezia. The new breakthrough technology uses the addition of excess excipient zinc in the form of zinc carbonate to suppress the dissociation of PTZ molecules to less active forms in the formulation, thus preserving the deposited PTZ in its most active and bioavailable form, and leaving it better able to penetrate and attack the Malassezia cells.

Superior Clinical Antidandruff Results

In vitro studies show the enhanced bioavailability of the new formulation is now two times more effective against the cause of dandruff. In human clinical studies this translates into significantly improved dermatologist-assessed flake reduction vs. traditional PTZ shampoos. Not only were significant improvements in flake reduction seen, but also the zinc-enhanced PTZ treatment works faster – reducing the time to eliminate flakes by 35 percent. The new breakthrough formula provides better relief from scalp irritation than the leading antidandruff shampoo.

“Our newest dandruff shampoo is the only shampoo to incorporate advanced zinc compound technologies that make it maximally effective against dandruff,” says James Schwartz, Ph.D., Research Fellow for P&G Beauty, who conducted much of the research on the new zinc formulations. “The benefits of enhancing the antidandruff activity of the shampoo involve the alleviation of all the symptoms associated with dandruff, not just flaking, but also the itching and irritation that are common with the condition.”

James Schwartz, Ph.D., is a Research Fellow at P&G. His research focus is on identification of formulations to provide hair care benefits, resulting in new and highly effective dandruff shampoo.

THE FUTURE OF PERSONAL CLEANSING

As bathing habits have changed over the past century, personal cleansing products have evolved and so have the tests used by scientists and clinicians to evaluate them.

Early in the past century most people in the United States bathed once a week. The ability of a personal cleanser to remove dirt was therefore very important. Word of mouth and personal experience were the primary means of comparing the efficacy of various personal cleansers.

As indoor plumbing became more widespread, many people began to bathe every day. Frequent bathing caused some people to have itchy, rough, uncomfortable skin. Therefore, mildness became an important characteristic of personal cleansing products. In-home use tests and patch tests were used to evaluate personal cleansers but were limited in that they were not very good at comparing cleansers to each other and did not always pick up problems that can develop over time with continuous use. In response, new tests were developed which could evaluate the irritancy potential of several cleansers at one time using a relatively small number of subjects.

More recently, technological advances in the formulation of personal cleansing products have allowed the addition of high levels of moiturizers so that the focus is no longer on minimizing dry skin, but on improving existing dry skin. P&G Beauty scientists have not only been at the forefront of formulating personal cleansers with superior moisturizing properties, but they have also led the new paradigm shift of testing the skin improvement (as opposed to the skin irritancy) potential of personal cleansers. In 1999, Dr. Keith Ertel and fellow P&G Beauty scientists published the Leg Controlled Application Technique, in which marked sites on participants’ legs were washed in a controlled manner, multiple times each day for five consecutive days, then evaluated visually and with instruments for skin hydration.

What is the future of personal cleansing? P&G Beauty scientists are leading the field in the development of personal cleansers with the ability to protect and beautify the skin by depositing unprecedented levels of lipids like petrolatum to moisturize the skin. These new personal cleansing products are being evaluated for their ability to both prevent and repair skin damage caused by environmental factors.

MYTHS AND FACTS

• Dandruff can only be found on the hair and head. FACT – Dandruff flakes are normally found on the head and hair. Interestingly, flakes are three times more likely to appear on the back of the head than the front or sides. This is believed to be caused by consumer wash habits.
  
• Dry scalp is usually the main cause of dandruff. MYTH – Dandruff thrives on oily scalps. In fact, a dry scalp is much less common. Clinical research has found that up to 90 percent of consumers who think that their scalp is dry, actually have the opposite problem.
  

STRANGELY BEAUTIFUL

As the primary boundary between our bodies and the environment, skin is continuously exposed to harmful elements. Outside influences, including solar UV light and environmental pollutants, form free radicals, which have been linked to premature skin aging. To better understand environmental free radicals and how to reduce their harmful effects, P&G Beauty scientists constructed a chamber full of one of the most common environmental stressors – cigarette smoke. Study subjects applied two different moisturizing products onto each forearm – one containing antioxidants A substance that reduces oxidative damage. This damage due to ROS most commonly is related to free radicals. An antioxidant usually works by giving up one of its own electrons to quench the free radical. It also helps stop the ongoing chain reaction or further propagation of free radicals which can lead to additional damage. and the other without – and then placed each arm in a smoke-filled chamber for 15 minutes. The study found the product with antioxidants A substance that reduces oxidative damage. This damage due to ROS most commonly is related to free radicals. An antioxidant usually works by giving up one of its own electrons to quench the free radical. It also helps stop the ongoing chain reaction or further propagation of free radicals which can lead to additional damage. significantly reduced the level of free radicals, thus preventing possible smoke-induced skin damage. These scientific findings on the influence of environmental antioxidants A substance that reduces oxidative damage. This damage due to ROS most commonly is related to free radicals. An antioxidant usually works by giving up one of its own electrons to quench the free radical. It also helps stop the ongoing chain reaction or further propagation of free radicals which can lead to additional damage. on skin health will help influence future skincare product development.

The image is a rendering of the chamber constructed by P&G Beauty scientists to study the effect of cigarette smoke on skin, both with and without antioxidant moisturizing product.

CLOSE-UP

Aquaporin

Aquaporins are micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls that move water to keep skin moisturized.

Breakthrough Nobel Prize-winning research has led to the discovery of aquaporins, micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin’s surface. Scientists have found that aquaporins are essential in moving water and glycerin into skin cells to keep skin moisturized and hydrated.

In recent laboratory studies with skin cells, P&G Beauty scientists have shown that specific skin care ingredients, such as niacinimide, can maximize the usage of aquaporins. With this extended understanding, P&G Beauty researchers are now able to create advanced skin formulations that use “micro-channel moisturization,” a hydrating technology that harnesses the power of natural aquaporins to continuously lift and enhance surface skin cells.

LAB NOTES

P&G Beauty scientists have been studying methods to help women with a common hair issue – breakage. In a 2005 survey, 41 percent of women agreed that they experienced hair breakage every day. Breakage can prevent hair from reaching its ultimate growth potential. As hair grows, it passes through three distinct phases – Anagen, the growing phase; Catagen, the resting phase; and Telogen, the shedding phase. If hair breakage occurs during the growing phase, it will shorten the hair significantly so that it never reaches its full potential length. To help women get breakage under control, P&G Beauty scientists have developed a product line specifically made to address this issue. The breakthrough formula nourishes each hair strand, making hair easy to comb when in its fragile wet state – a critical step to prevent breakage. A silicone combination in the conditioner fills the cracks, gaps and edges of hair’s damaged cuticle to increase smoothness and protection. This technology is expanding to meet the needs of all women. Different formulations have been designed for the unique hair needs of African American women, 70 percent of whom say they suffer breakage daily.

GLOBAL BEAUTY

Almost 75 percent of women do not realize that prolonged exposure to water in the shower can be drying to their skin. Water in the shower can disrupt the skin’s natural mechanisms for holding onto water by depleting the skin’s own natural moisturizers. P&G Beauty has created a new breakthrough patented dual-stream “ribbon” technology that wraps skin in more moisturization than any other competitive body wash – to help stop dry skin before it starts. P&G Beauty researchers evaluated the relative skin improvement of the new moisturizing body wash in a “torture test” with female members of the Southern California Aquatic Masters Swim Club in Santa Monica, CA. In this study, half of 52 swimmers replaced their normal cleansing product with the new dual-stream “ribbon” technology body wash while the other half used a beauty bar touted for its mildness. After seven days, swimmers using the dual-stream “ribbon” technology body wash showed a significant improvement in dry skin vs. the beauty bar users. P&G research showed that even women who put their skin through incredibly harsh skin conditions on a daily basis still noticed significant improvements in dryness after they used the product created with this new technology.

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Year after year, P&G Beauty opens its doors to dermatologists from around the world for a firsthand look at the science and technology behind P&G Beauty products. Established in May 2000, the P&G Beauty Dermatology Technology Symposium was designed to educate medical influencers about existing and upcoming P&G Beauty products, as well as establish a basis for developing future partnerships.

Held previously in North America, 2005 saw the growth of this event to include symposiums in Asia and Europe. The symposiums, hosted by Japan, the United States and the United Kingdom, showcased P&G Beauty’s leading technology, credible scientific research and product innovation. From establishing the European P&G Beauty Dermatologist Influencer program to hosting lab tours and reinforcing key relationships between P&G Beauty and the attendees, each symposium was able to celebrate its own unique successes.

With P&G Beauty consistently finding ways to exhibit its cuttingedge technology and innovation, these symposiums will continue to play a key role in educating influencers.

FAST FORWARD

After an eight-year study, the P&G Hair Care Research Foundation, in cooperation with Beijing Medical University, has identified nine herbs that can assist in hair growth. The herbs are from the tuber fleeceflower, Ligustrum lucidum, Tropaeolum, Saponin of Ginseng, Mongolian Milkvetch, Chinese angelica, Crataegus cuneata, Polyporun umbelatus and Bletilla stuiata.

This research has paved the way for more studies concerning the effects of herbs on hair. This year, under the sponsorship of P&G Beauty science, the researchers are screening for botanical plants that may have an antidandruff effect. By incorporating these natural substances into products, long and healthy hair will eventually be enjoyed by women around the world.

DID YOU KNOW?

It is actually more beneficial to apply deodorant or antiperspirant at night. You do not produce as much sweat at night because your body is cooler while you sleep. The product then has time to set into your pores and work effectively the following day.

P&G BEAUTY SCIENCE

P&G Beauty Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at nine global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 3,500 active beauty care patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates. P&G scientists are constantly seeking new ways of turning inspiration into innovation. P&G Beauty sells more than 130 different brands in over 180 countries worldwide that touch and improve lives daily. P&G Beauty had more than $19 billion in global sales in fiscal year 2004/05, making it one of the world’s largest beauty companies. The global leading beauty company at mass, P&G Beauty brands include: Pantene,® Head and Shoulders,® Olay,® Max Factor,® Cover Girl,® Gillette® Complete Skin Care for Men, Always,® Joy,® Hugo Boss,® Wella,® Herbal Essences,® Clairol Nice ‘n Easy® and SK-II.®

CONTACT INFORMATION

To talk to a P&G scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty, contact:

Heather Cunningham P&G Beauty Science +513-626-2606