Breakthroughs XXI
Science News from P&G Beauty & Grooming VOL. XXI
A BEAUTIFUL LIFE
The Innovation Approach to Beauty & Grooming Advancements
A tool used to diagnose melanoma, a manufacturing plant in Poland, and an ingredient known for strengthening joints may not appear to have much in common, but they each represent a part of how P&G Beauty & Grooming looks at innovation. To stay at the leading edge of innovation and continually introduce products that are based on science and technology breakthroughs, P&G Beauty & Grooming identified four mutually dependent disciplines–insight generation, technology development, product experience and design, and product manufacturing–as drivers of future innovations.
"We strive for a marriage of ‘what's needed' with ‘what's possible,'" says Shekhar Mitra, Senior Vice President, P&G Global Beauty & Grooming Research & Development. "Our 360 degree approach to innovation enables us to develop products with meaningful, measurable, noticeable benefits for consumers."
One example of how P&G Beauty & Grooming uses this approach is the development of Olay's line of skin care products, Regenerist®, ProX®and Definity®.
Understanding the value of "consumer-led innovation," P&G Beauty & Grooming views insight generation as the foundation of product development. Beauty is an emotional experience that often requires deep consumer interaction to understand unarticulated needs. Translating consumer needs into a holistic innovation leads to memorable solutions for the consumer. To understand the impact of skin discoloration on beauty and aging, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists partnered with leading evolutionary biologists to conduct a bio-psychological study. Results revealed that facial luminosity and even skin tone are vital components in defining youth and healthy beauty, helping identify the need for products such as Definity.
P&G scientists identify and develop novel ingredients and formulation platforms to deliver product benefits that were previously not possible, making technology breakthroughs another key driver to product innovation. In the development of Definity, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists used the SIAscope — a tool originally used in the detection of melanoma and an example of bringing open innovation into P&G labs with Astron Clinica — to evaluate how light interacts with skin to impact tone and pigmentation. Scientists then discovered that N-acetyl glucosamine, known for strengthening joints, helps reduce the appearance of skin discoloration when combined with niacinamide.
Realizing that delivering holistic benefits must include a pleasant consumer experience, noticeable product benefits and irresistible design are the key drivers to all beauty and grooming innovation. P&G takes a comprehensive approach to innovation to ensure products deliver the benefits consumers need and the experience consumers want. When developing Definity Foaming Moisturizer, technology and aesthetics were addressed in the aerated serum, which is less dense than a lotion or cream. The product was formulated to penetrate within the skin’s surface and reach the source of damage, while feeling virtually weightless on the skin.
Product manufacturing is the fourth identified driver of innovation. P&G Beauty & Grooming constantly evaluates and updates its operations to ensure they are efficient and sustainable. A new skin care plant in Poland includes state-of-the-art sustainability features, which have resulted in reductions in CO2 emissions and energy and water use, making the manufacturing of products such as Definity more sustainable.
“High-tech innovation occurs at the confluence of ideas,” says Mitra. “Our commitment to this holistic approach will enable us to continue to develop products which deliver the benefits consumers want.”
INNOVATIONS HELP OVERCOME BARRIER TO DAILY UV PRODUCT USAGE
A groundbreaking study published in Nature in 2006 shows that the build-up of damage to cellular DNA drives the aging process in cells.1 The DNA in skin is particularly susceptible to UV-induced damage. The buildup of UV-induced damage can lead to an aged appearance and in some cases to skin cancer.
It is well-recognized that broad-spectrum sunscreen products can help protect skin’s DNA by blocking direct damage from solar UVB and UVA rays at the skin’s surface. But many consumers don’t realize that daily incidental exposure to sunlight is the largest contributor to total lifetime dose of solar UV. Unfortunately most women do not use daily UV protection, citing skin-feel esthetics as the biggest barrier to daily use of a sunscreen.
To overcome the key barrier to daily use of a UV product, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists applied innovative approaches in product and experience design to the development of a new broad-spectrum SPF 25 anti-aging cream. This anti-aging cream contains a breakthrough formula that delivers the UV and DNA protection that consumers need while providing the premium skin feel and anti-aging benefits consumers want.
“Because sunscreen ingredients are heavy and oily it is technically challenging to provide superior skin feel in an SPF 25 cream,” explains Mary Johnson, Principal Scientist, P&G Beauty & Grooming. “Our formulators were able to overcome this challenge by adding nylon-12, a spherical powder which adds a silky feel to skin without compromising on the UV and DNA protection.”
To encourage daily use of the new SPF 25 cream the formula is holistically designed to provide multiple skin benefits. “This was achieved by adding powerful anti-oxidants, such as Vitamins C & E, and anti-aging ingredients niacinamide and Pal-KTTKS,” says Johnson. “The result is a formula that hydrates and improves skin barrier function to help rebuild cellular surface structure and restore firmness, giving a more youthful appearance.”
An independent study conducted by researchers at the University of Leicester’s Oxidative Stress Group validated that the new SPF 25 cream’s sunscreen technology produces a 90% reduction (p<0.001) in UVR-induced DNA damage in epidermal skin cells as measured by the comet assay. In a two-week blinded usage study, women rated the new SPF 25 cream highly for making their skin “feel moisturized,” “feel firmer,” and “look and feel younger.”
1. Niedernhofer LJ, et al. “A New Progeroid Syndrome Reveals that Genotoxic Stress Suppresses The Somatotroph Axis.”Nature 444, 1038-1043 (21 December 2006).INSIGHT GENERATION
The Foundation of Innovation
By connecting with thousands of consumers, P&G Beauty & Grooming product researchers gain valuable insight into what products need to deliver and how they need to be designed in order to meet consumer needs. This insight generation provides the foundation of innovative product development at P&G Beauty & Grooming.
P&G scientists regularly conduct consumer research using the latest high-tech tools, such as 3-D virtual spaces and eye-tracking technology. However, deep consumer understanding is often best obtained by spending time in the homes of consumers around the globe. By analyzing the nuances in consumer responses and looking for repeated trends, researchers may better understand product benefits and trial barriers.
"We don't conduct consumer research to find insights; insights are an outcome of spending time with consumers," says Pat Doyle, Research Fellow, P&G Beauty & Grooming. "Consumers find it hard to project into the future. It's our job to do this for them."
In the case of scalp care, for example, research revealed that many people believe the only sign of dandruff is white flakes on the shoulders.
"Consumers often don't associate symptoms such as redness or tightness of the scalp, irritation, and itch with dandruff," said Doyle. "This insight has helped us to understand how we can get the right products in the hands of consumers who may not even realize they need them."
PYRITHIONE ZINC
Technology Evolution for Effective Scalp and Hair Care
Continued innovation in beauty and grooming products requires the generation of new ingredients that provide benefits that were previously not possible. But identifying the ingredient is only the beginning of a continuous journey.
In the 1950s and '60s, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists embarked on a series of experiments, screening over 1,000 molecules for their effectiveness in improving the condition of the scalp. They identified the molecule Pyrithione Zinc (PTZ) as highly effective at improving the condition of the scalp and providing cosmetic hair care benefits.
While PTZ continues to be one of the leading ingredients for the treatment of dandruff, much work has taken place since those initial experiments to improve the performance of PTZ-containing products. For example, the effectiveness of PTZ has been optimized by designing the right shape and size of the particles. "By making the particles into smaller and flatter platelets, we discovered you could deliver maximum scalp coverage with optimum use of the material," said Dr. Rene Rust, P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist.
Having optimized PTZ as much as possible - and with a desire to continually improve product performance - P&G Beauty & Grooming scientists began to look at ways to improve the bioavailability of PTZ. Most recently, the bioavailability of PTZ on the scalp was improved by the addition of Zinc Carbonate, which forces the molecular equilibrium of the PTZ components towards the active form PTZ.
INNOVATIONS IN SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING PRACTICES
From micro emulsions in skin and hair care to instruments like high tech mascara brushes and sophisticated razor blades–product manufacturing plays a critical role in the innovation process at P&G Beauty & Grooming. P&G scientists regularly collaborate with external experts to improve manufacturing capabilities, including the use of the latest technologies to make operations more sustainable.
Plans for new plants in Poland and Romania were developed in partnership with sustainability experts MBDC, led by world-renowned sustainable architect William McDonough. Working with the principles of McDonough's Cradle-to-Cradle philosophy, the team studied wind, solar, rainfall, and humidity patterns of the proposed sites before designing sustainability plans. The Poland plant, which started shipping in April 2009, is projected to reduce CO2 emissions and energy usage by 25% versus similar best-in-class facilities.
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
Shekhar Mitra, PhD
Senior Vice President
As P&G's Senior Vice President Research & Development–Global Beauty & Grooming, Corporate Materials and Perfumes, Dr. Shekhar Mitra creates innovation strategies that lead to beauty and grooming products with meaningful, measurable, and noticeable results for consumers. But the role involves much more than strategy development. In addition to building capabilities and growing talent in a creative global R&D organization, he remains actively involved during the creation of the holistic proposition by working with his team of multifunctional researchers and enabling connections between breakthrough consumer insights and meaningful technology platforms.
Mitra's contributions include leading the development of technology platforms and innovation strategies that resulted in well-known consumer products like Olay Regenerist®, Definity® and PROx® skin care; Hugo Boss® and Gucci® fragrances; Gillette®, Secret®, and Old Spice® Clinical Strength deodorants; and CoverGirl® Lash Blast Mascara. Olay Regenerist®, Secret® Clinical Strength and CoverGirl® Lash Blast Mascara were named among the top ten consumer product innovations by the Industrial Pacesetter Awards in the past few years.
After receiving an undergraduate degree in Biophysical Chemistry from the Indian Institute of Technology, Mitra received his MS and PhD from Columbia University in New York and was Jane Coffin Research Fellow at Yale University. He joined P&G in 1984 as a staff scientist and was appointed Senior VP of Global R&D in 2009. He is a member of P&G's top executive team, the Global Leadership Council.
Mitra has been awarded 25 patents to date in various fields and is an invited speaker on topics ranging from game-changing innovation approaches to organization development. His passion lies in enabling the younger generation of professionals across all cultures, companies, and businesses to achieve their potential in the field of science and engineering. He is the founder and President of the first North American Society for Asian Scientists & Engineers (registered as SASE).
Resources
Nature
University of Leicester
Cradle-to-Cradle
Society for Asian Scientists & Engineers
P&G BEAUTY & GROOMING SCIENCE
P&G Beauty & Grooming Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 16 technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 10,000 patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty & Grooming products help make beauty dreams real for women worldwide and help men look, feel and be their best every day. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G's beauty and grooming products delivered sales of over $26 billion in fiscal year 2008/09, making it one of the world's largest beauty and grooming companies. P&G Beauty & Grooming offers trusted brands with leading technology to meet the full complement of beauty and grooming needs, including Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, DDF®, Frederic Fekkai®, Wellaflex®, Rejoice®, Sebastian Professional®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol Professional®, Nice 'n Easy®, Venus®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella Professionals®, Braun® and a leading Prestige Fragrance division that spans from point of market entry consumers to high end luxury with global brands such as Hugo Boss®, Lacoste®, and Christina Aguilera®. (NYSE: PG)
Please visit www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com for the latest news and in-depth information about P&G Beauty & Grooming and its scientific developments.
CONTACT
To talk to a P&G Beauty & Grooming scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty & Grooming Science, contact:
Heather Cunningham – North America +1-513-626-2606
Sian Morris – Europe, Middle East and Africa +44-1784-474776
Dr. Colin D'Silva – Asia and Australia +65-6824-5383
Mauricio Graciano – Latin America +52-55-57-24-25-51
Weining Wu – Greater China +8620-8518-3184